| Ekkis World
News Archives Date: 15.09.2007; Dresden/Germany After Manaus we had been looking forward to a rather easy way leading north. We had more than 1,000 km ahead of us, crossing the rainforest in the northernmost Brazil. Flat, we thought, relaxed cycling. The first kilometres were more like going on a roller-coaster. Up and downhill all the time, we never gained altitude but climbed more than some days in the Andes. And the sun harshly burned our backs. Though it wasn't all that bad, friendly people encouraged us, there was less traffic and fortunately no mosquitoes. However, a lot of people had told us creepy stories about the cannibalistic indigenous tribes. In deed we had to cross the reserve of the Waimiri Atroari people on the border between Amazonas- and Roraima provinces. An area in the Amazon rain forest which is cut buy the road on more than 100 km. It is prohibited to any visitor to move freely there, to stop the car or even to take photos. The indigenous tribes aren't used to the contact with civilization and are seeking to stay untouched by the outer world. To respect that we decided to cross this part on the back of a pick-up. For the time we had been south of the equator we experienced a lot of rain, after, proceeding north, we longed more and more for a little shower. The rain forest started retreating, giving space to fields, grasslands and dry savannah. During the day there wasn't more to do than resting in the hammock to prevent a heatstroke. In Boa Vista, the pleasant northernmost city in Brazil, we rested several weeks in the great hospitality of a local and prepared for Venezuela. The country didn't seem to have a good reputation. The whole world warned us from unscrupulous crime and inconsiderateness in Venezuela. Our route was fixed. So we headed off and started climbing steeply to the highlands of the Gran Sabana. Pleasant temperatures and a change in the countryside at last. Probably one of the most interesting areas altogether. Wide open savannah, limpid streams and waterfalls, giant table mountains, so-called Tepuis, and the indigenous tribes. People who impressed us with their open minded and warm-hearted characters. But that was not the real Venezuela, that was still to come. We realized that when we descended further north into the lowlands and the dark rain forests of the Bolívar state. We used the only road in the region at all. To the east the jungle of the Guyanas, to the west the mountains of Bolívar with the Angel Falls, the highest waterfall in the world. And we were right in the middle on our bicycles, together with snakes, tigers, pumas, scorpions... The people thought we were gone completely crazy. In a country, where one litre of petrol doesn't cost more than 2 Cents and where you get shot in the street for a pair of shoes. We had to face the truth, humans represented the real danger at that point. Everyone who was somehow in a better material situation had to protect oneself. Houses with iron bars on the windows, balconies and terraces like bird cages, tall walls with electrical fences, sceptical looks. There was no place anymore to feel safe at. As long as we found farms, we happily camped there for the night, but the further north we came the harder it got. In Argentina, for example, there was only a small part of the population to be classified to the criminal milieu. But in Venezuela it was difficult to draw a clear line. Drinking beer seemed to be a national sport, ignorance and disrespect seemed to be the common manners. We had tried for long not to yield this prejudice, though it was daily confirmed. Via Ciudad Guayana and Ciudad Bolívar we reached Maturín and eventually the Caribbean at Carúpano. We had been looking forward to the sea for long, the white sand and the palm trees. But unfortunately also there it was hard to enjoy it. Looking at that marvellous countryside, knowing you can't go no-where safely, no camping, no carefree relaxing on the beach, makes you see it with mixed feelings. Fortunately we could catch up with that a little later on Isla Margarita. Though the island is a bit touristy but also a bit safer than the mainland. By closing the independent TV channel RCTV, president Chávez pushed the country closer into the crisis, as it was deeply politically divided anyway. Especially on the the side of Chávez' socialistic followers we experienced the upcoming trend to blame foreigners for the common dissatisfaction in the country. So it occurred to us frequently that we got designated as the imperialistic North American, being guilty for all problems regarding the poor population. After all we decided to take the bus from Puerto La Cruz to Caracas in order to finish the trip without hassle. The windows of the bus had to stay closed all the time during the trip, to be protected from stone-throwers. As a matter of course Caracas was no bit better, but at least we could lock up all our belongings in the hotel. However, we preferred not to stroll for too long the streets and to stay discreet. We changed the hotel several times but anyway we only luckily escaped a robbery. We didn't want to finish the trip this way.
Date: 08.03.2007; Manaus/Brasil Cuzco had been the perfect place to celebrate New Year. In the map it looked like it was not too far to Abancay. But what we found was a 40 km long downhill ride down to the Rio Apurímac and after an endless climb of 60 km back up to 4000m, before we decended down the 100 zigzags to Abancay. From there was only a paved road to Lima and a few gravelroads crossing the mountains to the north. So we put the bikes on the roof of the coach, to avoid this hard part. But there was nothing about relaxing. The bus rattled up the rocky roads, following the endless zigzags for many kilometers and climbed across high passes. At parts the road was so narrow that we looked worried out of the window and watched the rocks under the bus going down in the deep valley. Than again it was so bumpy that it lifted us literally out of the seats and we wondered how our bikes would end up on the roof. From Ayacucho to Huncavelica we tried the road ourselfs on the bicycles. The cycling was hard and it took us a lot longer than expected. We were only hoping to get to Huancavelica from where there was a train for a few kilometers to Huancayo from where the road was finally paved again. Cycling was perfectly smooth from there on although it got colder and the air got thinner the further north we came. IIn Cerro de Pasco we finally reached the highest point of our trip at 4350m above sealevel. He had made it. It was only downhill from there, down in the jungle where it was warm and green. More than 100km downhill to Huánuco and in Tingo Maria we finally reached the rainforest. The people had warned us about the road to Pucallpa and also on the page of the german foreign office I had read about the assaults that happened quite often in that area. So we travelled the last kilometers in Peru again by bus. The road ended there. We had planned to travel down the Rio Ucayali to Iquitos in a boat to reach the Amazonas.IIquitos is situated right in the rain forest of Peru and although the city is inhabitaded by nearly 1/2 mio people, there is no road connection. Who wants to travel to Iquitos, comes by boat or by plane. Of course this was the place to discover the rainforest. Our guide showed us how to survive in the jungle, how to drink from Lianas and how to use natural medicines. We fished Piranhas and Caimanes from the river and our guide found a slow monkey in the trees.After 4 days we paddled like Indios in the canoe back to civilization - full of mosquito bites. To Leticia in Colombia (on the border with Peru and Brazil) took us a little boat, which was so stuffed with people that it was hard to walk. The passengers where hanging one next to the other in their hammocks. To be honest we were glad to reach the border to Brazil. We brought all sorts of impressions from Peru, but it had not been easy to travel there. We had been impressed with the high mountains but they also had taken us to our limits and so had been the people, too. Also the missing hygiene had brought us quite a few health problems. But now we had Brazil ahead of us, a modern boat took us within only three days down the Amazonas to Manaus, 1100km further east. Suddenly we were in a big modern city, right in the tropical rainforest. Now it is time to get back on the bikes, heading north to Venezuela! Ekki&Debi
Date: 03.01.2007; Cuzco/Perú The last time I wrote was from Bolivia, thats already ages ago. In Villazon, the border between Argentina and Bolivia, we had decided to take the train to travel on to La Paz. The roads across the highland are still unsealed, sandy rattle tracks, which we didn´t really want to take on 4000m. Instead we relaxed in the comfortable seats of the Expreso del Sur, watching the Altiplano through the window. The train only went slowly across the more than 4000m high passes and followed deep river valleys until we finally reached Uyuni late at night. The small town in the middle of no-where is famous for the near saltlake, the Salar de Uyuni. Having 12.106 qkm on 3660m above sealevel it has the largest salt reservior in the world. We had the feeling to be standing on a huge snowfield and having lost all relations of size and distance. Somewhere far away we saw some black points crawling over the white surface of salt, of which we were told it were buses heading across the lake for Chile. In the middle of the lake we came across a little hotel, which was made completely from salt. Floor, walls, tables, benches, beds... everything made of salt. Fortunately the chocolade didn´t have salt, although the prices were salty. From there we carried on by train to the town of Oruro, from where the roads were tarsealed again. The way to La Paz runs quite flat across the highland on literally breathtaking 4000m above sealevel. Before you reach the city of La Paz itself you have to cross 20 km of suburbs, today known as El Alto. Eventually you reach the highest point on 4100m and at the same time the most incredible view looking down onto a city, sitting 600m further down in a cañon and climbing up the steep walls. Down in the city we found the colorful life of the biggest city in Bolivia. Uncounted Micros, Minibuses and Taxis rushing through the steep streets, along hundreds of crafts shops, food stalls and markets. Everyone trying to sell goods, shoeshine-boys and barbers offering their services in the streets, from every minibus people shouting out the destination of their vehicle to the crowds to get as many as possible passengers (we counted up to 20) into the small buses. In the end we also used the offer to let us carry up the 600m of elevation to El Alto before we carried on with the bikes. Our way took us on to the north west heading for the lake Titikaka. From Copacabana, our last station in Bolivia, we took a boat on the blue lake and walked across the Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun). According to Inka legends, the sun was born here. The road to Peru kept on following the shores of lake Titikaka on 3810m. From Puno, the northern end of the lake, we decided to climb in a boat again to visit the floating islands of the Uros. The people there a really living on floating bamboo islands right in the middle of lake Titicaca. Since Puno we had to feel quite a few times on our own body that we were traveling in the rainy season. Christmas we spent in a little mountain village, far away from all comercial happening. Though it also was nearly without all the Christmas-flair as I know it from home. We were not sure, what to expect from Cuzco. Already before we were a bit worried about all the gringos (foreigners) and the prices according to that. But the rainy season also seems to have its advantages - keeping the prices down. So far we could bargain just about everywhere. From here we decided to go on a tour to the legendary Inka city of Machu Picchu and to travel once right like a tourist. When we rolled down by train into the jungle, thick clouds with rain covered the high mountains. But we were lucky: the following day the sun was shining beautifully over Machu Picchu to give us the expected views. We returned in time to Cuzco to celebrate an impressive New Year right in the city center. The people here ran around the Plaza de Armas at 12 hrs midnight as it is said to bring good luck... By the time we have now visited so many Inka ruins that I can hardly tell which one was where and when and how. For that we will leave soon to carry on to the north. Happy New Year to everyone! Ekki&Debi
Date: 27.11.2006; Villazón/Bolivia The way to the border in the North of Argentina was hard work. Another mountain was to be climbed after Tafí del Valle to take us up to 3050m. On the western side of the range the vegetation nearly disappeared completely. All what was left was some kind of rocky desert and lots of cactuses which I estimated for about 10m high. Rain had not been recorded there since April. But the wind in our faces was even stronger and brought a lot of heat and sand. Eventually we sat in Cafayate, quite out of energy, considering alternative means of transport. That was actually also because we had some problems concernig our health. After all we climbed back in our saddles to carry on to Salta. The countryside rewarded us with fantastic views of bizzare rock formations in all kinds of colours. But still though the weather wasn´t perfect for cycling, 40´C in the shade nearly kicked us off the bikes. Then again we froze our fingers on the way to Jujuy in pooring rain. The countryside was suddenly like changed, green and full of vegetation. Salta and Jujuy are rather small cities in the quite poor north of Argentina. The stile reminded me of Cordoba, a bit of colonial architecture in the center surrounded by small, one-storey houses in the suburbs. Since Jujuy the climate is finally more pleasant for cycling, especially the wind which blew us strongly in the back made the climb up on the Altiplano easier. Every day we gained a bit of elevation until we finally reached 3800m. The towns up here consist mainly of little square houses of loam, that fit with their brown colour to the landscape. And now - Bolivia! Villazón is located in a high plateau on about 3500m. The roads give a picture how one would imagine Bolivia: Women with colourful, whide scirts and big hats or the typical melon shaped hats. All kinds of street stalls and a lot of new eateries to try. I am keen to see, what else the country has to offer. Ekki&Debi Date: 04.11.2006; Tafí del Valle/Argentinia It´s long long ago... Finally it is done, I split up from Cordoba and finally I am back on track. The story is much too long to be told here. However, I had a moving time with a lot of ups and downs, lots of experiences and a lot of troubles, too. But fortunately the story took a good end and now I am not travelling alone. Together it is a lot nicer especially when being together with the girlfriend! Debora stocked up a lot on equipment, we are ready to take over the world! In the end I had changed my opinion and we had decided not to cycle the road to Tucuman. Tucuman is 500km north of Cordoba, crossing a empty and dry country. We took the coach. In the meantime it had become properly warm here and I didn´t quite like the idea of crossing the salt desert on the bike at 35´C in the shade... Tucuman was at least as busy as Cordoba, although it is by far not as big. From there on I am just fascinated with the lush green landscapes up here! Real green grass of which we could only dream in Cordoba... And in the mountains grows an impressive rainforest which remainded the both of us very much of the west coast in southern New Zealand. But we had - especially Debora - therefore fight right for the beginning with endles climbs and loops up in the mountains. To start on the second day with 1300 meters of climbing was rather surprising and extremely strengous. But all the work payed out with some fantastic views of the great mountains here. Hopefully the clouds will move on soon so we can carry on across the mountains on the road towards Salta. Ekki&Debi
Date: 25.06.2006; Cordoba/Argentinia I really had been in doubt with my plan to cross the Andes to Argentinia. The clouds just din´t want to clear in Santiago and nobody really knew whether the pass was open or not. The snowline seemed to be just over 1000m, far below the elevation of the pass at 3200m. The people in Santiago´s streets were hiding under their big umbrellas and seemed to go only on the streets if it really was necessary. I wasn´t particularily inspired regarding my intentions. But already on the road to the north towards Los Andes the weather improved a bit. On the day when I started for the 80km long climb the pass had just been reopened. At about 1500m the first snow was on the curbs and on 3000m it finally was all thickly snowed over. I was lucky because already on the following day after I had crossed the passed, the clouds moved in the mountains and the wind started blowing the snow all over the streets. Shortly after that the traffic seemed to stop and the pass was probably closed again. I once again rolled down into the auttum, the season I am now already following up for several months. But already in Mendoza I felt the warm northerly winds and at last I could cycle without to freeze again. Heading east I had to cross the endless empty Argentinian Pampa. Just flat bush country, straight ahead as I might have seen it in Australia as well. Only with that little difference that everything is a lot more affordable here. From San Luis the monotonous country finally ended. I choose the rather lonely route across the Sierras de Cordoba via La Toma and Merlo towards Villa Dolores. From Merlo I got attracted by the idea to follow a little track across the mountains to Embalse, a town ca. 100km further east on the other side of the Sierras. I had to climb up to 2100m in the clouds and to follow for another 2 days the bumpy little track through the lonely mountains. But the country up there rewarded me for every maltreation. On the way to Cordoba I couldn´t beleave my eyes when I came across the German township of Belgrano. German folk music sounded from the little shops, and diverse german beers advertised from the pubs and beer gardens. Cordoba welcomed me with naughty northerlies, I was hardly crawling into the city. But Cordoba is a beautiful city with a lot of colonial architecture. It was just recently elected to the cultural city of South America. I decided to stay here for a while to do something else but cycling for a change. And for that purpose I am just right here as the world cup has changed the whole city into a big party. Yesterday Argentinia won against Mexico 2:1 the metropolis was in a state of celebration. 10.000s of people danced and celebrated in the streets, fireworks and rockets illuminated the sky, the air was full of paper chips, all cars and motorbikes honked through the streets if they could get though anywhere. All and everything was in blue and white celebration. But what am I going to do next Friday when Argentina will play Germany? ARGENTINIA! ALEMANIA! ARGEMANIA! ALETINIA! OLÉ! Ekki
Date: 07.06.2006; Santiago de Chile Hello everybody, I am glad, everythong has worked out well. I´ve arrived here in Santiago yesterday around 12:30 pm. I actually dived into the smog of the city. First I had thought that it was just clouds but that illusion was immiditely gone when I had stepped thtrough the airports gate. The whole valley around Santiago seemed to be covered in a dirty layer of pollution. I couldn´t even see the shapes of the city. Above the blue mist towered the snowy Andes and its highes tops where hidden in the clouds. I left the airport followed by curious glances and Chileans who desperately tried to take me into the city in one of their "special-proce-minibuses". I ignored them being sure with my plan to find a camping spot somewhere. On the satelite foto it all had been looking so easy. Back at right hand side driving. I had changed my rear view mirror to the left side of my handle bar but my habits still made me drifting off to the wrong side of the road. The smog got into my nose, I struggled breathing and had to cough all the time. Probably all a matter of getting used to it. The sides of the road where stuffed with trash. In some areas they were so covered with it that even the cars had to go around it. I obviously had taken the "wrong" route once again, anyway that wasn´t a place where tourists are supposed to go. Also camping wasn´t as easy as I had hoped, as the mud on the fields sticked to my tyres until they blocked and I couldn´t quite go to where I wanted. But all that didn´t worry me because I was finally there where I had wanted to go. The people walked and cycled the streets here, everywhere the smog came from little wooden houses and people turned around for me. For a moment I believed having ended up somewhere in Thailand or China again. Even motorists seem to show a kind of respect here for cyclists. For the first time since my start in Sydney I actually realised that truckies have brakes, too. Possibly they are going slower here anyway. I do hope it will stay like this. I am now staying in a little hotel here in Santiago amd I´m trying to get through using hands and feet. My Spanish obviously is really miserable. The dictionaly will be packed right on top and I´ll keep on learning as I go. Looking at the mountains (if I can see them ever) I am still a bit sceptical regarding my intention of going to Argentina. There seems to be a bloody lot of snow up there. Time will tell. Date: 05.06.2006 In the end Sydney was the beginning of my journey by bicycle. I actually hadn't thought to travel in Australia by bike at all. But the trip by car was something different altogether, so I wanted to try it by bike once again. The east coast of Australia is rather densely populated and because of that it also has quite busy roads. That's why route along the coast was rather out of question plus it would have become boring anyway. In the end I didn't have much of a choice but to make my way across the "high" mountains. Actually the mountains aren't that high but the endless up and own and the steep Australian roads make cycling being a hard struggle. The further I went away from the coast the colder the nights became. Especially the moisture during the night gave me a hard time. It makes the cold go everywhere and it made me freeze at already 0'C in the normally warm sleeping bag. Well, that's the winter - even in Ozzi. Near Armidale I reached my highest points in the Great Dividing Range before rolling down to the rain forest on the east coast. The life on the coast appeared to me being just too easy. I carried slowly on going north. Near Coffs Harbour the subtropical area starts with its perfect white beaches, banana- and sugar plantations. The Australian beach life seemed to reach its perfection between Ballina and Byron Bay. That's also where I met Scott again. We know each other from our bike trip in China. (LINK) I was actually a lot to quick, quicker than I had expected to be anyway. Until my departure from Brisbane it was another two weeks to spend but only 200 km to go. So I had to make up my mind what to do although my excitement about Australia was lost a bit. I wanted to go to South America! I wanted to experience new cultures and coutries. According to that was my motivation. I only slowly rolled through the empty hinterland. It apparently had to be very lonely as I came back to the coast only to visit the tourist's paradise Surfers Paradise. The huge hotel buildings are towering directly behind the beach... At the moment Brisbane is quite a drought area, the dams are nearly empty and the people are worried about there drinking water. Water is being recycled, the lawn must not to be watered anymore, everywhere signs are warning about the water problem. I knew that from Sydney before but didn't believe to come across that in the subtropics. Scott, Dsudee and William are living directly in the centre of Brisbane and are spoiling me with all means of civilization. Now it's only a few days until I will sit in the plane to South America, the beginning of a new adventure! Santiago won't really welcome me with warm temperatures but will make me struggle with snow along the road across the mountains to Argentina. But so far I am only reading about this in the guidebook... Yours, Ekki
Date: 25.04.2006 Finally or already again in Sydney! Lets start from the beginning. From Perth we travelled through the huge eucalypt forests in south western Australia. It actually took us a while to get used to tha pace travelling by car. Although I had already visited the area 4 years ago, I was one again stunned by these giant forests. Those 100m tall trees make one look pretty small! in Esperance we left south west Australia heading for the endless Nullarbor plain. Several thousands of kilometres there wasn´t a town to be seen - just the highway and a few roadhouses. It goes straight ahead for ages, the trees are getting ever smaller until there's nothing left but little bushes and scrap. Not until the Eyre peninsula on the other end of the plain we came across a few towns here and there, mainly spread along the coast. What there is called a town wouldn't even deserve to be called a village back home. In Port Augusta we joined the legendary Stewart Highway which begins there and leads up to Darwin via Alice Springs. A short side trip gave us the chance to have a glimpse at the Flinders Ranges. Like a huge bowl the mountains of the Wilpena pound are standing in the landscape. Adelaide wasn't far anymore, where it took us quite a while to find a caravan park. It was easter. The landscape suddenly changed from dry brown into a colourful picture. Many german settlers had come here long ago and made themselfes home in the area. The obviously brought quite a bit of flora along which seems to be really exotic to the locals. via Mt. Gambier we finally reached the famous Great Ocean Road and where just too happy to see the twelve Apostles at sunshine. Near Melbourne we left Ted and Kay and made our way into the city. The train took us from there to Sydney. we'll stay here for a while at Nevilles place, go for hiking a little and wander the city a little (too much), too. christiane has to fly back soon but I am looking forward to my biketrip to Brisbane! Ekki Date: 28.03.2006 After a few weeks here in Australia I've now reached the green south western corner of the continent. We are now staying for a few days at Mike's place who is Ted's brother. I now got used to the Australian climate especially after having spent a few days up north at temperatures around +40'C in the shade. I'm even freezing at +25'C at the moment. It's all a matter of getting used to it. The news might have reached you already that my sister Christiane has managed once again to get off from work for a few weeks on 'special vacation' to join us on our trip. So she's hopped on the airplane and only arrived here two days ago - directly imported from the winter. So far my bike has been sitting on the back of the van most of the time to go for a ride with us across Australia. Hopefully I'll have a chance every now and then to get out of the airconditioned car and to go for a little bike ride to gain a closer view of the nature down here. Parrots, huge eucalypts, white beaches and a lot of empty open spaces. Australia like I remember it from my last trip. Although it might take me a little while to get rid of my old German manners and to relearn the 'Australian way of life'... all the memories from 4 years ago are back already. Tomorrow we'll start for our camping trip across Australia which will take us thousands of kilometres through this marvellous country! Ekki Date: 15.03.2006 Back in Aussie! The whole trip ended up a bit longer than expected, which I didn't really mind. The flight was delayed due to some technical problems. Nevertheless Qantas did a good job on caring for it's passengers and everything including taxi and hotel was arranged. This way I had the chance to catch up on sleep a little after all the riding and flying. When I was going across Singapore by taxi I wasn't sure anymore about not to return to Asia again. There's just that certain charme! Well, I don't have an onward flight, yet...! My bike went for free again although I definitely broke the magical 20 kg mark. Immigration to Australia didn't cause me trouble either, not having an onward ticket. Now I'm hanging around here at 30'C in the shade which needs a bit of time to get used to. Already on the first few k's from the airport I got properly fried and now I sorta look like a lobster. See you around, Ekki Date: 26.02.2006 It's time again, the flight is booked - in a few days I am off for my next journey. The preparations are running for quite a while already and my packing list slowly clompletes. Although this time I am a lot more relaxed about it - compared to five years ago, there're still heaps of things to be done. I'll be working until the last minute to get my finances to a healthy state. Unfortunately I have to replace my entire bike including the frame as I was run over by a car while standing (!) on the road a few months ago. The careless driver now denies her mistake and askes me to pay for the damage on her car. That's what happens if one does not have whitnesses... Read more about my new equipment here. On March 10th I'll fly to Perth in Australia to catch up with my friends Ted and Kay. They are already packing up their campervan and I am very much looking forward to cruise across the contient for a few weeks. My actual bike tour will start in South America. I haven't come up with exact plans for that yet as I've learned that it's best to plan as you go... Date: 27.11.2005 Hello and welcome everybody, I have made it. Finally I can proudly present you my new Homepage after having spent many days and nights on my computer. Of course it is not complete, yet, but probably it can never be finished. I will be back on the road soon and I will keep on travelling for sure. You will be able to follow my trips also in future and hopefully you will become attracted yourself as well! Now just take a little time to browse my website. Click on the bicycle in the menu to the left to see the map of the world as a summary of my journey. From there you can follow my trips in detail. Read about my experiences and watch a few photos, too. Maybe you are interested in the visas which I have collected along the way, or the equipment I carried. To learn more about me, simply click on the picture of my head. It would be nice if you took some more time, to leave a few nice lines in my guestbook. You are also very welcome to send me an e-mail. There might also be few things left to be asked in the end. I am happy to answer all your questions, but also try the international bicycle forum. I will probably gather up a few questions by the time and publish them under FAQs... Enjoy yourself with my page; I wish you good luck and a lot of wonderful experiences for whatever trip you go on.
Ekki |
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